Installation of the Hoist:
The hoist is designed with simplicity in mind. It is slim, light (depending on the model), and has a steel base plate, making it sturdy and solid and is a completely integrated unit. There are no ‘loose’ components, the wire rope cable drum is Internal, and there is no lowering of or coiled electric cable.
|It is designed to be installed either flush to the ceiling (in line-of-sight), where you may find the hoist cover plate (figure 1), sold separately, useful for cosmetic reasons, or in a void space such as, in between floors, in an attic/loft or in a false ceiling (non-line-of-sight).||
Figure 1: Hoist Cover Plate
1. Securing the Hoist:
Bolt securely in all four corners, using the predrilled holes in the steel base plate.
The hoist can be bolted directly to a concrete or steel structure. Alternatively, it can be hung on brackets made especially for the job. However, it is possible on smaller-scale jobs to use a ‘box-in’ arrangement to hold the hoist in place and stop it from moving – this method isn’t recommended but is a viable solution when the hoist isn’t due to hold a lot of weight. Figure 7 shows an example of how a hoist can be mounted.
2. Hoist wiring guide:
There is a black connection block coming from the hoist system (figure 2), labelled ‘L1, L2, N and PE’, the supply for the hoist and fixture to be hung are wired into this. Removal of this block or alteration of the wiring from it to the hoist will void your warranty. Your fixture draws its power through the hoist – there is not a separate connection for your fixture.
Figure 2: Connection Block
Figure 3a: The connection plate diagram
Figure 3b: Picture of the connection plate
3. Recommended Wiring:
The connection plate (displayed in figure 3) at the base of the hoist has three male connectors L1, L2 and N, giving you the ability to create two separately switched circuits. For example, allowing you to turn tier one and tier two of a chandelier on separately. If you only require one switched circuit use L2, this will allow you to use the L1 circuit solely for the hoist, allowing you to switch it off completely when not in use.
Our recommendation for wiring these units for best results is below:
i) Add a single new circuit breaker for the hoist (and hanging fixture) to your consumer unit (breaker board). Size depends on the model (ratings shown in 3. iv) and to be determined by an electrician, as should the appropriate wire type for use throughout the installation.
ii) We recommend a ‘D’ class breaker to handle the normal motor start-up spike.
Please note: L1 and L2 cannot be wired to separate breakers due to them sharing a neutral. The common neutral means you will not be able to isolate either supply individually, which means there is a risk of electric shock if wired to multiple breakers.
Figure 4 is intended to give you a sample idea of how to wire your unit.
Figure 4: A guide for installation
iv) The hoists have the following required ratings, so cable and breakers should accommodate:
Models AN2 and AN3 require 4kW power and 18A current
Model AN4 requires 6kW power and 36A current
Model AN5 requires 8kW power and 36A current
4. Attaching your Hanging Fixture:
Your fixture is attached to the connection plate using the included D shaped shackle (as shown in figure 6).
It is recommended that you use some thread lock adhesive on the threaded boss (screwed into the connection plate) for added security.
If you are not mounting your hoist flush to the underside of your ceiling, you can bridge the gap between the underside of the ceiling and the position of your hoist with a few links of chain (see figure 7)
Figure 6: Shackle and connection plate
Figure 7:Bridging the gap between the hoist and the underside of the ceiling.
To provide power to your fixture connect to the male connectors on the underside of the connection plate using the blue female crimp connectors provided.
When the connection plate is fully raised the male connector pins on the underside of the connector plate will be LIVE, do not touch.
If the hoist is connected to an electrical supply the brass pins where the connector plate rises to will also be LIVE, do not touch.
Figure 8b shows the connector rings on the back of the connector plate.
Figure 8a: Conncetion plate contacts
Figure 8b: Back of the connection plate
5. Weight Safety Test:
To test the integrity of your hoist installation, you should carry out a weight test. A weight test tests the fixings holding your hoist system rather than the hoist itself. The hoist undergoes testing during its manufacture.
Warning – Do not stand underneath the hoist when carrying out a safety test!
1-Fit a suitable vessel to hold the testing weights to the connector plate on the hoist using the D shackle on the hoist.
2-Lower the hoist so the vessel sits just above the floor.
3-Add the safety test weights. Do not stand under the hoist whilst adding the weights. The hoist will not operate whilst overloaded.
4-Check that the gap under the vessel remains constant after the test weights have been added. Leave for 30 minutes.
5-Remove the weights, check the operation of the hoist and visually inspect the fixings.